FRIDAY 28th March We
had a taxi to Heathrow to arrive by 06:00. "Budget Cabs" was
less than before. We finally arrived at our hotel in Dalyan, the
Longhouse Inn,
by about 8pm. Phil had met to us at Istanbul.
We also
met four group members Alan and Heather and Peter and Maggie. Seda met us at
Dalaman with Pierre and Michele. Then we drove in the minibus to Dalyan,
famous for its large Nile River Turtles. (Only Phil saw one!) The Hotel
was cold on the first night, as was eating outside, but air-conditioning
kept us warm at night. |
Geo-tag Maps of our progress during the
ten days |
Lycian Rock Tombs on the other side of
the river from our hotel, showing "Helenistic influence" The
quality of the tomb reflects the occupants influence and money during life. |
An unfinished Tomb, did the money run
out? |
Political Map, NB Rhodes & Greece |
The Mosque in Kas |
The Lycian civilization was situated
between Dalyan and Antalya, co-incidently the same as our trip. In the 12century BC they
appear in the Illiad attacking Troy. A matrilineal society with their
own language, they were conquered in turn by Persians, Athenians,
Macedonians, Egypt and Rhodes. They were granted independence by Rome in
168 BC but became part of the Empire in 42 AD speaking Greek. There is
little left of them but their rock tombs, sepulchers and sarcophagi but the
countryside still has a wealth of flowers and the eternal flames still burn at
Chimera
near Olympos.
|
SATURDAY
29th March Day
1 |
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|
|
After breakfast we set off by boat to visit
Lake Koycegiz calling in at the Sultaniye Thermal Mud Springs. They can
reach 39 degrees C and are said to cure many ailments, but we
disappointed the guardian and didn't go in. In the afternoon we
looked around in the area of Kapuz village |
Today's Geo-tags |
Our boat arrives at 08:30 |
Not so wealthy tombs opposite |
.
Euphorbia on the Cliff face
|
We pass a fisherman in the reeds |
River bank cliffs |
A Boat Crane, almost all boats flew the
Turkish flag. |
Allium neapolitanum
|
A very large cricket on Helen's trousers |
Helen near the hot Mud springs showing
rock strata |
A large Giant Peacock Moth outside the entrance to
the Mud springs |
A very noisy Levant Water
Frog |
Little Egrets in a Pine Tree beside the
rive |
A Detail |
Morning Light |
A Cormorant poses |
and rushes off |
A Turtle basking |
The Riverside spot where Phil saw the
Nile River Turtle |
Our Group botanising
along the river bank |
Aspodel aestvus |
Fritillaria acmopetala |
Tulips,
Tulipa armenum lycica |
Anagallis arvensis -
Blue pimpernel |
White Damsel Fly |
Ophrys
lyciensis Several group members were very keen
to see as many types of orchid as possible |
Cistus creticus |
French Lavender,
Lavandula stoechas |
Fritillaria acmopetala |
Levant Water Frog |
Gladiolus anatolicus |
Onosma albo-roseum |
Tri-Striped Lizard lurking |
|
Heather and Alan spotting birds |
Scabius |
Orobanche |
View towards the hills |
A copse by the Mud Springs |
Red and Black Spider |
Hawkweed |
Other tourists on the river |
Geranium |
Entrance to the Mud springs |
Entrance to the Mud springs with the silk moth |
Anemone coronaria |
Across the river |
Cynoglossum creticum |
A typical modern peasant house
|
Cynoglossum |
Tulipa armenum lycica |
Cytinus hypocistus a parasite on cistus roots |
The Greek island of Meis or Megisti a few
miles off Kas |
The Lycian Coast was populated by those
who had always lived there and those who had colonized or invaded.
However, after the Ottoman Empire was defeated in 1918 and the Turkish
war of Independence, in 1923 the Turkish
Government decided to neutralize possible hostile Christian minorities.
Greeks were largely deported to Greece and Armenians suffered many
casualties. Some Greeks did not go far, to Meis, and now they get on well
with their neighbours, goods flowing in both directions,
|
Where? |
SUNDAY 30th
March Day
2 |
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|
|
Helen was unwell in the morning but the rest of the group visited the
ruins of Kaunos in the morning.
After lunch of Turkish snacks back at the hotel we all drove to the unique Liquidambar Forest. The fragrant Liquid
Ambar is used to make styrax and frankincense. Named by Linnaeus
in English! We also searched several grave yards with flowers saved from grazing goats.
|
Geo-tags |
The final defence battlements
overlooking Kaunos |
Landing at Kaunos |
Hawkweeds |
Out of the main entrance to theatre with
information boardson either side |
Founded in the 9th Century BC Kaunos
was an important Carian city on the border with Lycia and reflected both
Kingdoms. As well as botanizing, we visited the well preserved theatre, the acropolis, baths,
temple, running track etc. . There were plenty of
information notices but it would have been more photographic if a little
more restoration had been attempted.
A lot of the buildings reflect the
Roman era.
|
Kaunos was built on a steep rocky outcrop |
A long view of Kaunos
from the Daylan river |
Rock Tombs above the dry silted-up harbour
with feral donkey |
|
Pollen Beetle |
Poppies |
Orabanche |
The Ticket Office Ceiling. It also had modern,
high tech turnstiles. |
Alan and Heather learn about the Kaunos site |
Bellevalia trifoliata |
|
Chamomiles |
A wandering Tortoise of which we met many |
|
|
Agama on the ruin wall |
Steps to the Theatre area |
Ruins with plants |
Agama |
Poisonous hyoscyamus aureus |
Hyoscyamus aureus |
Arum concinnatum
|
Campanula lyrata |
Tiny Baby Tortoise |
A local religion or cult |
Exedra Stone Seating, (should be in a
circle.) |
Poppy |
The theatre |
Entrance tunnel for the "cast". |
Umbilicus erectus |
Wall Fern |
Agama |
Detail |
Circular Building |
Giant Fennel on the arch |
|
Anagallis arvensis, Blue pimpernel |
All pictures enlarge |
Kaunos Acropolis |
Doorways lined up |
|
|
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|
Our Driver looking around |
Busy Beehives |
Syllabum |
Giant Fennel in the ditch |
Sedum in the wall |
Campanula |
Kaunos site map |
Defensive Ditch and wall |
The Roman era Baths |
Fallen ceiling, note the Swastika, Greek long
before it was German. |
Feral Donkeys |
Orange Tree |
Thoroughfare |
Circular Altar in temple |
Another Temple
|
Exhedra information |
Gateway |
Tamarisk beside the Kaunos dock |
Serapias Cordigera |
Broomrape, Orobanche |
Euphorbia |
|
Campanula |
|
Unfortunate placing of the lifebelt that
we all enjoyed! |
Common Blue |
|
Red Admiral |
. |
Liquidambar Forest |
|
|
|
Liquidambar
orientalis, commonly known as Oriental Sweetgum, or
Turkish Sweetgum, in the genus Liquidambar, native to the eastern
Mediterranean. The forest of this tertiary relic endemic taxon is found
within a specially protected area between Dalyan and Koycegiz where a
286 hectares are set aside as a nature reserve for the
preservation of the species.
|
See Bottom right for location of
Liquidambar Forest |
Liquidambar Spa Hotel |
Liquidambar Orientalis tree |
Ophrys heterochilla? |
Iris albicans |
Ophrys |
Speckled Wood |
Tiny frog living in a puddle |
Yellow Darter |
Pregnant Lizard |
Speckled Wood |
A Graveyard |
An ornate Bird table |
Baby Turtle who poo-ed on Phil's hand |
A Black Whip snake in a graveyard, about 4 foot long,
making off, |
Imported flower in a
graveyard |
Fritillary |
Tragopogon |
Limodorum abortivum |
MONDAY 31st March Day
3 |
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|
|
We set off on a chilly early morning
trip to Iztuzu Beach where later in the year Loggerhead Turtles nest and
there is a research station. A strnuous walk across soft sand provided birds
and views in abundance. Then, having packed up, we set off to Kas and our new hotel. |
The beach is top left |
The lighthouse beyond the jetty |
River bank |
Lighthouse from the
river |
Along the beach |
A sign post for the tourists. Germans
have now replaced the British. |
A shack in the marsh |
Helen seeks an artistic shot |
Medicago marina in the sand |
Euphorbia paralias |
Erodium acaule? |
Heather framed by a tree arch |
A juniper bent by the prevailing wind |
We walk along the beach |
A crab hole and its tracks |
In the marsh |
A lagoon behind the beach |
Perhaps the men are discussing the election which was
today? |
The Centre of Dalyan near where we stopped
for fuel. |
To the shops by their family transport |
A wayside Mosque |
A modern house on the way home |
Statue of Loggerhead Turtles in the
Centre of Dalyan |
Mountains in the distance |
A small modern house
|
A larger Mosque |
Banks of Euphorbia characias |
|
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|
|
We had our picnic lunch at
Pinara Archaeological site which had been one of the six top cities in
Lycia. There was a theatre, temple, odeon and a cliff face honeycombed
with tombs. Helen and I had trouble returning from the Royal
Tomb along a route I selected with a steep drop this caused a rapid
change of route! |
A dell on the way to the tombs |
Pinara hillside |
|
Orchis anatolica |
Many rock tombs, originally sealed but
robbed long since |
|
Cistus creticus |
Cistus salvifolius |
Tordylium apulum |
The Pinara Theatre
|
Orchis anatolica |
The Royal Tomb |
Decoration over the lintel |
Comma |
Panorama |
Daphne Sericea |
Rock tomb |
|
Rock tomb |
Ophrys fusca |
Pierre surveys the Pinara theatre |
Ophrys fusca
|
Man Orchid, Orchis italica |
Ophrys fusca, note underside |
Lizard |
Re-erected arch/ doorway |
Ophrys Fusca |
Anemone |
Ophrys ferrum-equinum |
We disturbed their love making! |
Cistus salvifolius |
Ophrys ferrum-equinum |
Poppy |
Ophrys ferrum-equinum |
Medicago? |
TUESDAY
1st April. Day
4 |
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|
|
In the morning we
botanized close to the Hideaway Hotel in
Kas then in the afternoon visited a series of graveyards
where, generally, the goats had not eaten the flowers, although one had
been cleared of any vegetation.
We failed to attend the briefing about free WiFi etc due to a
misunderstanding but learnt it later. |
Geo-tag Map |
Kas, the restored theatre |
A stone seat |
Euphorbia |
Corydalis |
Trifolium stellatum |
Coronilla varia |
Hardhead? |
Coronilla varia |
Pink Geranium |
Coronilla varia |
Ophrys Lutea/sicula |
Euphorbia rigida |
Iris Germanica |
Ophrys |
Orchis anatolica |
Orchis |
Iris unguicularis carica |
Bellevalia trifoliata |
Iris unguicularis carica |
Arum dioscoridis |
Anemone |
Arum dioscoridis |
Orchis italica |
Windflower, Anemone coronaria |
Millipede |
Scorpion |
Scorpion |
Pierre considers Iris Germanica |
Orchis |
Helen takes a close-up from ground level |
Butterfly Orchids |
Butterfly Orchid, Orchis papilionacea |
Butterfly Orchid, Orchis papilionacea |
Orchis simia - monkey orchid |
Little mouse in a turban? |
Butterfly Orchids |
Orchis simia - monkey orchid |
Ophrys speculum |
Iris |
Fritillaria elwesii |
Dry stream bed |
|
Iris germanica |
Orchis anatolica |
Orchis |
Open country |
WEDNESDAY 2nd April
Day 5 |
|
|
|
We had a walk round
town before breakfast and then in the morning botanized in the Kas area
near the hotel then drove to the Kuruovobelli Pass and then on to the Smekilibelli
Pass. Having
left my Kindle charging cable in Dalyan I managed to buy one in a phone
shop for about £3 compared with £25 in our Boots. |
Geo-tag Map |
His Breakfast Chai with a friend
watching. Seda
said most dogs belong to no one, but people feed them and a charity
neuters them and marks it by ear tags. |
A "Greek" House. All old houses get
labelled as Greek. |
Wash Day |
The alley Opposite the Hotel |
Gate lamp of Hideaway Hotel |
In good weather everyone eats on the
veranda |
Sedum in a rock |
Old style shops in Kas centre. |
Angels trumpets, Daturas |
Hideaway Hotel |
Arum dioscorides |
Chatting in the sun |
Gladiolus |
Mimosa, acacia |
Ophrys Ferdinand
Coburgii
|
Note the steep scree rubble |
Arabis |
Gladiolus |
Fritillaria kitanae
|
Fritillaria Pudica |
Muscari |
Dead Nettle, Lamium |
Shading the subject |
Alyssum minus |
Corydalis |
Corydalis wendelboi? |
Lizard |
Gagea granatelli |
Cyclamen alpinum |
Brown Fields |
Tiny pansy |
Anenmone Blanda |
Anenmone Blanda |
Gagea granatelli |
Another steep hillside |
Lathyrus digitatus |
Ornithogalum armeniacum |
Cyclamen alpinum |
An Old Farm House |
An Old Barn |
Looking over the countryside |
Arabis |
Lychnis
|
Apple Blossom |
A Farming Family |
Barn |
Euphorbia |
|
Muscari Muscarina |
Rock Rose,
Helianthemum nummularia |
Euphorbia rigida |
|
Irises |
Our Driver and Seda |
Children play in the street in Kas |
Kas rooftops |
White on White |
Shops in Kas |
Backgammon in the street |
Looking over Kas |
Who ate all the pies? |
Roof Terrace, Hideaway Hotel |
THURSDAY 3rd April.
Day 6 |
|
|
|
In the morning we visited the village Agullu and after a picnic lunch near
Kalekoy
and the Simena Site visited Kekora Bay and the Andriake
Wetland for Bird watching. Unfortunately I am not quick enough to photo
the birds most of the time. |
Geotag Map |
White Dead Nettle |
Mallow |
Ophrys |
|
Foxglove Tree |
Kalekoy Boatyard |
Ophrys |
Ophrys Lutea |
Aspodels |
|
A Pea |
A farm cat |
Silene aegyptica |
Aspodel |
Ophrys |
Dracunculus |
Kalekoy Boatyard |
Country House |
Boat in the Garden |
Simena information |
Simena Archaeological Site. There was an
English woman buried just outside the cemetery at Kalekoy |
A Jay on a gravestone |
Sarcophagus lid |
Minute, Green Toad baby, one of many. |
Yellow Darter Dragonfly |
Parentucellia viscosa |
Sarcophagi |
Kalekoy Harbour |
Seda resting |
A robbed sarcophagus |
Lycian Graveyard |
Lantana? |
Doorway in Simena |
Tourists visiting the "Sunken Harbour" by
boat |
A Scarf Seller |
The Small theatre |
"Very nice" |
|
Deadly Nightshade |
NB Stone Wash Tub |
The defences are ready! |
Kirchner's Gecko |
A Smart Villa |
Looking over the battlements |
A Closed Cafe where we did not get a
drink |
Green Carob Beans on the tree |
Selling Harem Trousers at Kalekoy market |
Rock House carved out of an outcrop? |
Little Egret |
Andriake
Wetlands |
Waders |
Black Backed Stilts |
Heron? |
Modern Supermarket |
FRIDAY 4th April. Day 7.
|
|
|
|
We visited Avlan Lake hopeful of seeing
birds, without much luck and then climbed up the very steep screes
behind. I slipped and cracked my elbow on a sharp rock here.
We had a picnic spot in the woods
near Orvubik and then drove to the ruins near Limyra. |
Geo-tag Map |
|
Lake Avlan |
Lakeside Avlan |
Ophrys |
A turtle emerges from the stream |
Ophrys |
Rubble Scree |
A pink prunus photographed |
Pear Blossom? |
|
|
Our picnic spot |
|
|
Tiny blue Flowers |
Onosma frutescens |
Wooded Hills
|
What is the central pillar for? There is a
gap above it. |
|
|
|
|
Rock Rose |
Lymyra
Ruins |
Carved stone column |
Turkish visitors |
River with a paved
bottom at Lymyra |
Foundations of Ptolemaion |
Defensive Wall |
|
Agama |
Anagallis arvensis, Scarlet Pimpernel |
Marigolds |
The river lined with frogs, too fast to
photograph, Ptolemaion Church in the distance. |
Phil waits for birds or frogs beside the
Cenotaph to Gaius Caesar |
|
Lymyra Ruins, the colonnaded street |
Flag Iris |
Keeping the grass down |
Grizzled Skipper?? |
The
Lymyra Theatre |
Corn Bunting |
Gladiators entrance? |
|
|
Let the Lions out! |
Chemist Shop with
flats over |
They grow a lot of
Oranges here |
A Turkish Teenager |
SATURDAY 5th April
Day 8
|
|
|
|
We set off to look
for the Lycian Orchid at a Nature Reserve which had become overgrown
and really was now unsuitable for orchids, However Seda contacted the local
"Project Director" who showed us a new site. Seda showed him
one she
had discovered and then was included in the project! Good for her CV!
After lunch we
visited Belem, Adrasan, Olympos and the everlasting flames of the
Chimaera. |
|
Finike 2000 Hotel |
The steep climb needed to reach meals |
Goats go head to head |
Waiting for a bus? |
New location shown to us by local botanist |
Lician Orchid |
Orchis |
Picnic Spot for lunch |
|
Samurai mask? Ophrys Straussii |
Genista |
Anemone coronaria |
Anemone coronaria |
Bee |
Ophrys
|
Ophrys rheinholdii |
Ophrys |
Ophrys |
Asphodelus aestivus
|
Ophrys Lycia |
Ophrys |
Ophrys Sicula |
Ophrys
|
Ophrys |
Ophrys |
Ophrys |
Orchis |
Orchis |
|
Pollen Beetle |
Pollen Beetle |
|
Moon Daisies |
Ophrys |
Hawkweeds |
Mountains beyond |
|
Ophrys |
|
Maggie in a graveyard |
Tragopogon and a Cricket |
|
Chicory |
Tulipa orphanidea |
Tulipa orphanidea |
Genista? |
Pollen Beetle |
|
Colour variant |
Our group checking on the Tulips |
Late Snow drops,
Galanthus elwesii |
Tulipa orphanidea |
|
Tragopogon |
Tulips' Habitat |
Ophrys |
Orchis |
Ophrys |
Pink Vetch, Lathyrus stenophyllus |
Ophrys |
Cistus |
Limodorum abortivum |
Ophrys |
Barlia robertiana |
Tulipa orphanidea |
Limodorum abortivum |
Beefly?? |
Wood Anemone |
Anemone coronaria |
Small Stream |
Bicolor vetch |
Roadside stall plus
dummies
|
Ophrys |
Ophrys |
The god Vulcan, the
god of fire, was widely worshipped in Roman times and near Olympos is
the site of the eternal flames of the Chimaera that have been burning
for several thousand years. "Chimaera" because the monster breathed
flames.
Analysis of the gas shows its origin is metamorphic, like coal
and petroleum, not volcanic. |
Grey valley off the
steep path to the Chimera. We found it quite a hard climb. Turks
tend to wait until the cool of the evening. |
The ruined Roman Temple at the
site. |
Turkish visitors
|
Religiously dressed
visitors |
Roman inscribed
column |
Inscribed lintel |
Numerous flames on
the site |
Beside the track |
Hypericum |
Horizontal tree |
Tourist
experiencing the heat. |
SUNDAY 6th April Day 9 |
|
|
|
In the morning we sought peonies and
yellow fritillaries around Ucoluk. After our picnic lunch we drove
to the ancient city of Phaselis. |
Geo-tag Map |
Peony, Peonia maculata |
|
Peonia maculata |
Stony hillside |
Bellevalia dubia |
Asphodeline lutea |
Temporary summer shelters
in the mountain pastures
|
Fritillaria Carica |
Fritillaria Pudica |
|
Fritillaria Pudica
|
Fritillaria Carica |
|
|
Scilla Bifolia |
Snow Drop Habitat |
Colchicum triphyllum |
|
Caterpillar |
Gagea granatelli |
Aconite |
|
Fritillaria Pudica
|
Fritillaria Pudica |
Lamium |
Helen finds a dead lizard |
Dead Lizard, its colour increased post
mortem |
A tiny pansy, Viola kitaibeliana |
|
Muscari |
|
Mountain Farms |
Van just makes its way round a fallen boulder,
we had got out! |
Maggie and Seda pretend to move the
boulder |
Cyclamen cretica |
Mountain Road |
Muscari Muscarimi |
Across the hills |
Aristolochia lycica |
Aristolochia lycica |
Geranium tuberosum |
Old Style House |
At our tea stop, is
she worried? |
Lizard |
Doronicum orientale |
|
White Pea |
Aristolochia lycica |
Colchicum
|
Crocus biflorus
isuaricus |
Snow Drops,
Galanthus elwesii |
Cyclamen alpinus |
Crocus biflorus
isuaricus |
|
Lupins |
Geo-tag Map of
Phaselis. |
Phaselis. |
Aqueduct
Phaselis. |
Aqueduct |
Carved column |
|
Alley way |
|
|
Phaselis was founded
by colonists from Rhodes about 7th Century BC and made its money from
shipping timber, rose oil and perfume. The ruins date mainly from
Roman times but the eastern empire spoke Greek. Translations into
English of the inscriptions were provided. |
Phaselis theatre |
Wedding Photos |
Smart religious/modest dress |
Carved Lintel
|
|
Main Street |
Capturing stonework |
The Bay towards Olympos |
A bather |
Underfloor heating |
Main Street |
Erodium |
Where the Aqueduct reached Phaselis. |
|
|
Balancing |
Clouded Yellow Butterfly |
|
Cafe near where we saw so many migrant birds,
including a Hoopoe, enhanced through Phil's telescope. |
Dracunculus |
Maggie searches the valley with
binoculars |
Female Lesser Spotted Woodpecker |
|
White Spectacled Bulbul |
Daisy Bush |
Smalls? |
Fumitory.
Fumaria capreolata |
Feeding the ducks before going to the
Mosque. |
A Goat Herd arrived |
Finike Marina from the
hotel
dining room which had a magnificent view |
Opposite the hotel waiting to be fed. |
A Back Door |
Electric gate to our next hotel. |
MONDAY
7th April
Day 10 |
|
|
|
We took a walk round Beycik
village before breakfast are far as the Mosque. Helen was harassed by an
amorous dog. After breakfast we set off for Tahtali and after a picnic
beside an old well visited the Kemer Valley |
Geo-tag Map |
Typical Tower Blocks, the towns all
looked new and prosperous and their industry is growing. |
Our Drivers Hotel |
Our next door farm |
Modern peasants house |
Local Goats |
Smart new house |
Local Mosque, paid for by the Government
like all Sunni Mosques
|
Kitsch Supermarket |
Stump Art |
Peonia maculata |
Peonia maculata |
Ancient Plain Tree many hundreds of years
old |
|
Euphorbia
dendroides bush |
Alpine Meadow |
Anemone Blanda |
|
Ornithogalum umbellatum |
Ranunculus cadmicus
|
Anemone blanda |
Sarapias bergonii |
Picnic spot |
Crocus almost over
|
Barbarea verna |
Cyclamen Creticum |
Ornithogalum nutans |
The door to Olympos
Mountain Lodge
with a "Hazar" overhead to ward off the evil eye |
Local kid |
Olympos Mountain Lodge, Beycik |
The Proprietor and wife
on the breakfast terrace |
River Valley |
Fungus Lacework |
|
Looking down on the river |
Cephalanthera kurdica
|
|
Ophris climacis |
|
TUESDAY
8th April
Day 10 |
|
|
|
We had another really early start
(04:00 GB time)
with a packed breakfast provided. We drove along dirt tracks in the dark,
then along dual carriage way to Antalya Airport and the usual wait for the
plane. |
I had tried
to check-in on line 24hrs ahead, but because of a glitch as Turkish Airlines had changed
the plane times, could not until Seda had a word with the airline. |
We were met by the same
taxi driver at Heathrow he phoned my mobile to say where he was as we
were delayed in baggage reclaim, over 230 passengers, and thought he had
missed us |
We arrived home about 17:00
to be greeted by two affectionate cats who seemed to have missed us
although they had had rather a lot of luxury tins! |