SATURDAY
11th Sept Day
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Left home at 10.00;
lots of hold-ups on the way, but we listened to
the semi-finals of the 40-40 cricket and the
weather was beautiful so we didn't mind. We arrived at 4.30 having
stopped a couple of times for the loo and once for lunch. An attractive
small cottage; very humid but with a dehumidifier and very well
appointed. Enough hot water for baths after we found the immersion
switch.
We managed to stow most of our stuff away
and are now wondering what we have forgotten. We
had shepherd’s pie for supper in front of Strictly Come Dancing. |
Sitting
Room
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Kitchen |
Bedroom
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Bathroom |
Front Door of Number3 |
Path to
the beach |
SUNDAY 12th Sept Day 2 |
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We went down to Peppercombe beach
after breakfast. We passed a ‘Boulton
and Paul’ prefabricated bungalow like the one we stayed in at Coombe
Corner with a flower meadow for a garden. The path was lined
with ferns – the hounds tongues were particularly splendid.
Some of the trees were propped up across the path and quite a hazard to
the inattentive or anyone taller than a small child. On the
beach the tide was on the turn and the waves were pounding in and we
took some photos also close-ups of the stones which were fascinating in
detail. The light will be better on the bay in the evening –
there are some red brown cliffs which could be interesting.
Someone had made a driftwood bothy on the beach and we talked to an old
lady (Peter’s description, she was younger than us) who had walked down
from Horns Cross.
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The beach |
Driftwood
hide |
North
Devon Coast |
Path to
the beach |
The beach |
Across the
bay |
Natural Sculpture |
Path to
the beach |
More |
Pj in the
sitting room |
The
Cottges |
After lunch we drove to Clovelly which now has an enormous car park and
a visitor centre built across the entrance to the ‘theme park’ village.
There was an entry fee, but the village itself, though full of tourist
attractions, still has a lot of charm. Old donkeys were
available for snaps and strokes; people who were puffed out from
the climb up the cobbled street were glad to pause and pet them.
There was a Landover for the people who could not climb back up the
steep road (£1), but we thought a bit of exercise would be good.
We went on to Westward Ho which has an enormous bay and as the tide was
out there were acres of sand. After coming home, we
went down to Peppercombe to bay again, the light was better, but there
were no clouds and the light on the cliffs was flat. Had sheps for
dinner. |
Donkeys in
Clovelly |
Clovelly |
A steep
street |
Souvenir Photo? |
Main
street plus H |
A Cottage
Garden |
Ice Creams |
The Jetty |
The house is below this
path! |
Decorated
door
surround |
Bottom of the main street |
Stables for the donkeys |
The Craft Workshops |
A steep narrow street |
A family on holiday |
The Red Lion |
"Grockles" |
A bit of a struggle |
Sea Front houses |
Kids making waterworks |
Gull and catfish |
Jetty end
and a Beacon |
A Queue? |
Drinkers |
Long view
of the harbour |
Lobster Pots |
In the sun |
Sledges for towing luggage
etc |
Doorway |
Derby and
Joan |
Snout Butterfly in our
cottage |
MONDAY
13th
Sept Day 3 |
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Porridge still not perfect, H in charge this time. A robin is very
keen to have a share, we put a small piece of brazil nut on the window
sill. Left for Oakhampton at 9.30 calling in first at the Asda outside
Bideford to buy some coffee, The Independent, robin food and broccoli.
On to Oakhampton to the ‘information’ centre to find out about standing
stones and buy a map. Had an early lunch at a café – a full
English breakfast and a watery vegetable lasagne - then went on to find
the stones. |
Westward Ho! Bathing Safety
Flag |
Stone Art |
Follow me? |
Big Sky |
A detail |
Closer |
RNLI Life Guards |
Friends |
My pool |
Peppercombe Beach |
We made for Merrivale and walked across the
moor towards some stones that looked like a gorilla or the Sphinx, but
were called Vixen Tor. However when we got there the farmer had put up
barbed wire fence and notices to say that it was private land – no
entry. We took some pictures of the stones and one of a fox moth
caterpillar whose food plant is calluna vulgaris, but it was dark and
threatening to rain so we moved on. We found the Post Bridge
information centre where we were given very good instructions to find
the Bowerman’s Nose. We found it and took lots of images around it
including more fox moth caterpillars. The sun came out for a short
time!!! |
Bridge on Exmoor |
Vixen Tor |
Exmore Ponies |
Bell Heather and Gorse |
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Foal |
Bowerman’s Nose. |
A
turtle? |
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Fox
Moth Caterpillar |
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Speckled
Wood |
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Natural arrangement |
Red Cliffs at Peppercombe
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Having had a successful snap, we set off home and
arrived at 5.30.The
roads are excellent with little traffic, though we did have to wait a
bit behind a cement lorry and use passing places on one car roads… The
driver (H) will sleep well tonight. |
TUESDAY
14th
Sept Day 4 |
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Porridge good, method now perfected just need to
be able to do it again. Misty rain this morning; the robin has not
eaten his special mealworm mixture, even though Bill Oddie recommended
it. The plan is to go to Barnstable and check out the Pannier
Market. Birds wake up later here, a robin, great tit and nuthatch have
endorsed the seed mix. The nuthatch is the dominant bird. They are
feeding only 6 ft. away from the window.
Went to Barnstable found out where Sainsbury’s was
from the information centre. Looked around the Pannier Market, did not
find it enthralling. |
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The Pannier Market |
A
foreign student tour Barnstable |
Royal &
Fortescue Hotel |
Filled up at Sainsbury’s and went on to Woolacombe
which was shrouded in
mist or low cloud. Visibility was about 50 yards at best. Decided to
go on to Ilfracombe where it was a bit brighter. Had lunch in the
theatre cafe – toasted paninis with salad followed by coffee. Unusual
building with flowerpot towers, quantities of guesthouses and hotels
must supply a regular audience. OAPs everywhere having a great day out
despite the weather… Some wonderful rocks and wild seas would have
been excellent for photography if the light had been better. H took a
few snaps with the S710 . Went back cross country along a very hairy
road via Lee – not even a white road in quality– to Moreton Hoe. Almost
everything had shut down because of the weather. We walked as far as a
view of the sea from the cliffs, but decided that it was too wet to go
further. Supper was garlic sausage in mulligatawny with mash and
broccoli. |
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Bandstand and Gardens |
Theatre Cafe |
The Pavilion Theatre |
WEDNESDAY
15th
Sept Day5 |
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A grey day, but not raining. We set off and
found that the weather outside
our valley was light and bright.
Pootled round the lanes to Hartland Point to see the lighthouse.
Parked and walked the coastal path for about a mile, then were assaulted
by some gusts of wind that rattled the "packamacs" like machine gun
fire. It required some effort to stay upright. It started to spit
with rain so we came back to the car and drove round to Hartland Quay
where we had lunch. The beer was ‘Proper Job’ from St. Austel though
we were still in Devon (just), there was Thatcher’s cider on tap, but I
was driving… We had a chicken Kiev and a vegetable pasty - the food
has yet to inspire us. Bought some nougat for Ann and a crow hand
puppet for John and the girls. Peter bought some peanut brittle which
has already vanished… |
Hartland Point |
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An Ancient Wreck |
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Abseiling down |
Hartland Quay |
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Watching the waves |
Vertical Strata |
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Went on to a garden at Elmscott, Docton Mill –
built round a restored water
mill. The herbaceous borders were good, but the planting was not
original. Maybe the designers of the garden are no longer around.
However, the gunnera was exceptionally well grown as were some heleniums
growing in damp soil. We saw a comma and a dragonfly and took some
pictures. The sedum ‘Autumn Joy’ was covered in flower and insects of
all sorts. Came home and after a drink, went round the cliff path to
the red rock cliffs and climbed down to Peppercombe beach. There was a
rope to help with the descent, but it was easier to go from tussock to
tussock. We walked back over the pebbles taking pictures as we went.
Had a Thatcher’s Old Rascal with supper. |
Millwheel |
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The Loos |
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The Mill Leet |
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The Tea Room |
Patriotic! |
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THURSDAY
16th
Sept Day 5 |
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A
squirrel was eating the birds’ food when I opened the curtains; he stood
his
ground and finished all the best bits.
We had a look at the Lynton and Barnstable Railway
at Woody Bay station. It is a 600 mm gauge line. The engine was
called ‘Sid’ and was made in Munich. Everything on the site was
wonderfully well conserved and the macaroons and coffee were good too.
They would like to extend the line, but bridges would be needed and the
cost is prohibitive. |
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Sid |
Fixing the Coupling |
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Two foot gauge railway |
Signal Box |
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H snaps a cat |
We
went to Linton to have a look at Exmoor. The Information centre was in
the Town Hall which was an amazingly ornate structure. The loos were
excellent. There must have been a ‘rococo’ architect in the Victorian
times many of the buildings had turrets and excrescences. We parked
and had lunch in a caff – still nothing to compliment. Had a look at
Lynmouth, but did not spot the way to the Valley of Stones |
Went on to find the Valley of the Stones, much trouble between the
driver and
the navigator and difficulties with turning round,
but in the end we found it… Climbed up the rocks and took some
pictures, a Speckled Wood butterfly dodged the cameras as did a Wall;
had a cream tea, first for H for 10 years, won’t be repeated! We went
up to the moors and found a few minutes of light amongst the overcast
cloud. Peter spotted a minute windbent hawthorn tree which featured in
our photos. |
Cliff Railway |
Feral Goats
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Pure Exmoor Ponies keep the scrub down |
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Goat Trails |
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Castle Rock |
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Devil's Cheesewring |
White Lady |
Castle Rock |
Rugged Jack |
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Valley of the rocks |
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Getting a low level shot |
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Came home via Dr. Smart’s garden at Marwood
Hill. It has changed a lot since our last visit about 30 years ago, it
is now a garden of trees and shrubs
but still good and we took some pictures. I don’t remember the
lakes which were created in 1969, but they must have been there. I
remember a stream with astilbes and primulas which is now very much
larger with coarser plantings. Some very interesting Rodgersias with
very dark red leaves. Major plantings of hydrangeas, a dark red purple
one ‘Rotshwantz’ and a blue mophead with pale blue and cream
colouring. Many eucalypts too some 30ft tall; rather too many trees
too close together and more young ones planted between – maybe they plan
some culling. Came home past Barnstable in the rush hour, very slow.
Had toast for supper, we are running out of food… |
Marwood Church |
Circle of seats |
Red Admiral |
Birches |
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FRIDAY
17th
Sept Day 6 |
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Went to Rosemoor, PJ not navigating but
driving; amazing how fast 40 seems
in the passenger seat… Rosemoor has expanded
considerably since the RHS took it over. A restaurant, lecture hall,
library, shop, plant sales area and gallery plus a tent for weddings
have been built with adequate parking. Everything very well made and
designed. More land has been taken in over the road and the
landscaping is impressive. We saw volunteers working in the garden
which explains the very high standard of maintenance. The hot garden
was full of pokers, rudbeckias, cannas and eupatoriums. The latter had
a hornet on it which P was keen to snap, but as one cannot step on the
soil, it was impossible. It shot off to another clump of flowers like
a fighter aircraft. We took lots of pictures including small
tortoisehells and red admiral butterflies. We had lunch at the
restaurant – very enjoyable meals; duck casserole and aubergine bake
with red cabbage and vegetables.
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toast for
Lady Ann's House |
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Tortoiseshell |
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Turtle Flower |
We
went over to the original Rosemoor garden around Lady Anne Palmer’s
(now Berry) house which has been divided into holiday flats. We
recognised the Mediterranean garden, but not much else. There were
some arisaemas in fruit and a magnificent walnut tree. We bought a
heucherella ‘sweet tea’ and butterfly and day-flying moth charts.
Called
in at Sainsbury’s on the way home to get some deli bits. |
SATURDAY
18th
Sept Day 7 |
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Packed up and left the cottage at 9.30 arrived home at 3.00 having had
an
indifferent lunch at Gordano service station.
The
cats were pleased to see us and celebrated with a double tuna with
shrimp jelly. We will have a curry delivered.
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